Did you say Tarta or Torta???

As I mentioned in my last post, I am a huge fan of tarts and pastries. A few months after living here in Montevideo, I was enlightened on the difference between a torta and a tarta. I still consistently confuse the two, but on a good day I can remember that a torta is sweet and a tarta is savory. (Unless you are talking about a torta frita, which is neither savory or sweet)

I have to say that tartas have been one of my favourite food finds. There is something very satisfying a homemade tarta and a side salad for lunch. Like anything else, the quality, portion size, and ratio of pastry to filling will vary from location. But basically, it is a thin crust on top and bottom filled with either veggies, cheeses, meats or a selection thereof. I have the convenience and pleasure of a small cafetería within in the Pilates studio where I have been training. In the tiny kitchenette, the chef makes a half a dozen varieties from scratch (starting with her own pastry dough) every week. My favourite tarta is the zuchinni and mushroom. The crust is a mix of white and wheat flour and the filling holding the cooked veggies together is a light creamy sauce. Pictured above are two different varieties. On the left is caprese - mozzarella, tomato and basil. On the right another favorite - a layer of squash, a soft white cheese, and corn. She also makes primavera - tomato, hard boiled egg, jam, and cheese, pasquilini- spinach, egg, and red bell pepper, and the classic - jam and cheese. My time is limited here, so I intend to continue to enjoy my favourite lunch find. I've put in my request for a lesson in the making of a tarta before I leave!

Where to find them:
Most confiterías or panaderías, and the deli section of the grocery store
Quality and variety will vary at each location.
Portions tend to be big, ask for a media porción if you want a light lunch or if you want to try a couple varieties.
(Warning: sometimes the combinations get very creative. I would shy away from jam and cheese with frosting on top or tuna with pineapple!!)
Price $20-35 pesos/porción

Who makes the best empanadas?

I am truly a sucker for anything in pastry shell. I love quiche, tartas (more on those soon), puff pastry savories and sweets, mom's "homemade" chicken tarts, and just about anything else that gets golden brown and flaky. So as you can imagine, I do enjoy empanadas.

In the states I have experienced mediocre quality pizza and chinese delivery. But here in Uruguay almost anything can be delivered. We thank our friends over at a Year in Uruguay for the great tip about La Chacha empanada delivery.

So to locals and friends back home ...where do you recommend eating empanadas??

At La Chacha, my favourite is the chicken curry empanada. We have tried about a dozen different fillings. You can order most either baked or fried. I have never tried the latter. They come pipping hot within minutes of placing your order.* I like serving them warm with a side salad of arugula, tomato, and corn. Pop open a bottle of Tannat and you've got a great meal.

Here are some we have tried and liked:
Pollo al curry
La Chacha (spinach, garlic, and ricota)
Oliva (olives and cheese)
Pampera (cheese, onion, and garlic)
Mediterranea (cheese, tomato, and basil)
Del Bosque (cheese, leeks, and mushrooms)
Clasica (ham and cheese)

Not as tasty as we thought...
Chopsuey (chicken, veggies, and soy sauce)
Mexicana (meat, onion, and tomato, and "salsa mexicana")


La Chacha
$19 pesos/per empanada
706 8505
*delivery is limited to Parque Batlle, Cordon, Buceo, Pocitos, Parque Rodo, Villa Biarritz, and Punta Carretas






But now I ask the locals...who makes the best empanadas???

Yum yum yum

If any of you are planning a trip across the river anytime soon, I imagine you will be exploring some of the many wonderful museums in Buenos Aires. Besides having a wonderful selection of Latin American artists, the MALBA also has a fantastic chic café. Grab a spot outside under the trees, get comfortable in their indoor lounge area, or set your self up at the bar. The meals, Italian coffees, and desserts are exquisite. After sharing a fresh spinach salad with crispy panceta, feta cheese, and mushrooms, I could not let this dessert go untouched. Creamy vanilla ice cream in bath of fresh raspberries and syrupy sauce.

Divino!

Korean, Chinese, Arabic, and Thai .... in Uruguay?

Well...yes and no.

Allow me to share some international food experiences I have had the last few weeks. Some are keepers others we can pass on by.

1. Korean

Previously mentioned in a post from our good friend, Chuck, we located some Korean food in Ciudad Vieja. This place is authentic as I can imagine it would be in a Korean neighborhood, as not only the sign but also the menu is totally in Korean. There is not a Spanish word in sight. Located near Radisson in Plaza Independencia, it is easy to pass up unless you are tipped off to its location. They have only been there four months, and when you go inside you will see nothing but Korean faces from the chef, to the chef's wife and baby, to the Korean diners. Ask for the English menu (something we discovered after the third time going and struggling with Korean-Spanish charades) but be forewarned that not everything may be available. I strongly recommend the fried dumplings, the dumpling soup, and their great fresh salads. They also have squid stir fry (pictured below), noodles with black bean sauce, and spicy dishes of meat, rice, and veggies. If you are really hungry, and up for a great feast, order the Korean BBQ (sizzling panceta, onions, jalapenos, garlic accompanied by cold salads, leafy greens, sesame leaves, and sauces). They insist it is for two but my husband and I both agree it could feed four. It is truly delicious and you will not leave hungry. If you go, tell them the North Americans from California sent you.



Unfortunately I can't tell you exact prices as we never receive an actual bill. But here is some idea...
Korean BBQ, beer, dumplings and salad $660 (for "two")

Four main dishes with rice, one soup, two beers, water (complimentary) two orders of dumplings $900 pesos

2. "Chinese"



I give this place a "A" for effort and a "C-" for taste. Located in Punta Carretas shopping, "Verde & Wok" has all the necessary ingredients to make a great lunch. Owned by a well known chef, uses fresh ingredients, includes many vegetables and lean meats, and is even prepared right in front of you. Unfortunately, you can have the best fixins' and still not know how to put them together well. I ordered verduras al provencal which was a mix of sliced vegetables tossed in a sauce and cooked in a wok. What I expected was crisp greens with tasty sauce. What I received was watery, limp veggies with trace amounts of flavor. I was disappointed. I wanted to say...Step aside Che, hand me that wok!!!

Sum up:
verduras a la provencal
wok oriental
drinks and cubierto included
$240 pesos

Location:
Puntas Carretas Mall

3. Arabic



Does anyone else besides me just love the Disco in Punta Carretas mall? ( I swear I am far from a mall rat...though you all might be sensing a theme here)

Anyway, IF you can find some out-of-the-ordinary ingredients you may just find them here. This week I stumbled upon whole wheat pan arabe. They come in large pita size, and small snack size as well. If anyone has had the mini whole wheat pitas from TJ's back in the states, they taste just like those! YUM. They also have thin flat bread they suggest for "tacos" and thicker flat bread that reminds me of something you might eat at an Indian restaurant.

4. I teased you with Thai.

Though not found in Montevideo, I did inherit some Thai curry paste and spices from a dear friend who left the country and who had previously done a big shop in BA for Asian ingredients. The pan arabe sure came in handy tonight, as did white rice, as that curry was HOT HOT HOT. Good thing I couldn't find the fresh thai chiles with which to garnish the dish as the directions suggested.

That is all for now....

-GG

Pan de Ciruela

At times, Uruguayan food plays with that balance of sweet and savory. When taken to extremes the result is almost unpalatable. For example, friends told us about the specialty "tarta de atún" that was served as a first course at the family Christmas dinner. It consisted of a sweet pie crust, a filling of canned tuna, and another sweet layer on top. I have seen this sort of creation in a grocery store downtown. What I thought was apple pie had a layer of sliced jam and cheese in the middle. There was also the ham and cheese tart with sliced canned pineapple and maraschino cherries.

However..there are those times when the sweet and savory combo is conducted very well and (in my opinion) Pan de Ciruela is a great example. It is a loaf bread made of butter, milk, sugar, eggs, flour, and prunes. After it is baked, it is cooled and sliced and made into little ham and cheese sandwiches and served with coffee or tea. The loaf above is from my own oven, and the sandwiches are the "vegetarian version" ( I ran out of ham in the house!)

At first I thought it would be such an odd combination. I tried to picture cutting up my mom's banana bread and layering turkey and provolone inside. But these delightful little sandwiches I enjoy time and time again at my local tetería, and they were kind enough to give me the recipe.

Where to find them:
Most teterías or confiterías

Qué aproveche!

No Nonsense Sandwich Bread

I'm big label reader. In the states I see other consumers looking at backs of packages or scanning nutrition ingredients. Here, I think they just want me to chose quickly and move on ahead to the check out line.

I was disappointed to find that most sandwich breads were loaded with trans fats, and those that were not were about as flavorful as cardboard when toasted. I have yet to find a nearby bakery that sells fresh whole wheat sandwich bread, but I have discovered the brand Fargo which makes a whole wheat or integral sliced bread that we use daily in our house. It is free from the offensive trans fats, soft rather than dense, and toasts beautifully for breakfast. They also have a couple other varieties including a white sliced sandwich bread. It is easy to find at most grocery markets and little corner stores.

one loaf about $43 pesos

Partners in Crime

I can't help but share some great posts on food in Uruguay. Most have gorgeous pictures as well, so be sure to check them out!

Torta Frita (pictured above)

Churros

El Horno

Mercado del Puerto

Pizza

Beer in Uruguay

Coffee in Uruguay